Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
